Home again

And how lovely it is to come home on a beatiful, warm, early summer day (but it is only September.)
The flight was uneventful after all. We had to wait longer for our shuttle home than we should have because I neglected to tell them that we travelled business class and got out quickly. The driver made up for keeping us waiting by carrying both our suitcases (at the same time) up our drive.
The cat is pleased to have us home. Jo is pleased to have his own computer rather than a dratted tablet. And I had a wonderful time in the green grocers buying apples, vegetables, cheese and strawberries.
Until next time. . . . 

Here we are again

We are back in the business class lounge waiting for a flight out of Taipei. Last time it was early morning en route to Narita and I couldn't face any noodles. Now I realise that I don't really like wheat noodles. Rice noodles are for me. Not to worry there is plenty else to snack on while we wait for our flight.
We went to the Fine Arts Museum today.

FAM

It had three excellent exhibitions.
1. Women artists in Taiwan since 1930. They run the gamut from traditional Chinese painters to installation artists. The earlier ones tended to have stopped painting for 20-30 years to raise a family but a couple of them really broke loose after that.
2. A. Retrospective of the local photographer who has been at it for 54 years. There must have been a thousand photos in his show. He has to be brilliant at keeping them all in order.
3. An artist who paints ultra modern, glass buildings which have traditional landscapes reflected in the windows. This exhibit deserved a second and third look.
Eventually we got back to the hotel to pick up our bags and head for the bus station which is part of the main train station just down the block. Well, we walked all around that wretched building trying to find the right place without carrying our bags up any stairs. The last time Jo did that, in  Kagoshima, his leg muscles ached for 4 days. We eventually ended up where we started from, crossed the road and there we were. We hopped onto the first bus to the airport. It drove around in circles picking up passengers from classy hotels. It then mutated into a suburban bus and picked up passengers from shopping districts. After a long trip on the freeway, it started to drop off passengers in an industrial area. Eventually it arrived at the airport (via the cargo area.) Talk about an afternoon for roundaboutations!

cloudscape from FAM

There is some weather between us and the Philipines. I hope it doesn't lead to more side tracks.

Taiwan Museum and Tamsui

This morning we visited the Taiwan Museum which is still housed in the purpose built Greek revival building built by the Japanese in 1908. It has a interesting collection of exhibits including a temporary one about the qipao which is the local equivalent of the cheongsam style of dress. Lots of folk loaned examples from their family collections. It only went out of style in the 1970's but that is two generations ago here.
There was an exhibition about global warming and the danger to Taiwan's food supply. Did you know that there is a vast seed collection in the permafrost in Sweden. If the worst happens and humans are driven to open that vault, what is the likelihood of them eating rather than planting the seeds?
There was an exhibition about their first marine conservation area, another about amber, one of the local flora and one about the indigenous groups of Taiwan who have been here only about as long as the Aboriginals have been in Australia.
And a photographic exhibition of the local mountains with snow on them.
Jo was museum end out so we took the Metro to Tamsui, the end of the line and joined a procession of Chinese tourists to gawk at the local delicacies and curiosities.

The wrapped building is the local art gallery.

Museum free Monday

They are all closed except for the Palace Museum which must be even fuller than it was yesterday. So we 
1. Found a yarn store. The only embroidery thread was Olympic brand which didn't have a skein the same colour as the DMC that I ran out of. So I bought some yarn and needles to knit socks.

2. We looked in all the stores along Camera Street. Jo has decided what camera he wants but it is more expensive here than it was in the single camera store we managed to find in Kagoshima.

3. Walked past the President's Office and its flanking President and Vice President's Archival Museum (not tempting even if it was open), army offices of various shades and law courts to arrive at the botanical gardens which were sweet and weedy. On the way I saw this potted pine which proves that the locals know how to grow:

I also spotted a solution to your courtyard, Margy. Even Harry could make this for you. It has two sheets of re-bar mesh in a frame. You slot pots in at an angle. Easy to change the display.

And I saw this logo again. It is all over Japan. I think, from the web url, that it is a logistics company.

National Palace Museum

We found the metro station below the Taipei Main Station, we figured out how to buy a ticket with the cash that we had got from the only ATM that accepts foreign cards, we got off at the right station, we found the right bus stop despite the area map in that station and rode to the Museum. The nice bus driver let us travel free because we didn't have coins and he didn't have change. . . who knew?

The museum was packed. There were large groups wearing earphones that picked up their guide's chatter -- so much better that them all shouting over each other. We almost gave up but decided to behave like crass foreigners and push past the hordes. The stuff is definitely worth seeing. The bronzes! The jade! The pottery! The calligraphy! The paintings! 
But where were the textiles? None. Not a single emperor's dragon robe. Everything in this museum is the highest standard so I wouldn't expect to see his undershirt. Maybe the hordes aren't interested in darkened galleries. Or maybe those who "rescued" the palace treasurers were more interested in books than textiles. 

Long day

The day started earlier than it should have. An announcement woke us up at 2am. We had no idea what was said. But it sounded serious but not urgent. After a while there was female chatter from the corridor. And then another announcement, in a female voice, that sounded reassuring. So I ignored it. Jo thought it was the alarm and got up. He had started his morning rituals before I sent him back to bed. (It was a mistake, they confessed.)
We got to the Naha airport in plenty of time as it is only 10 mins by momorail from our hotel. It was good to see the orchids again.

We had 4 hours to wait in Fukuoka and I ran out of thread 927. So my embroidery is finished. I have signed and dated it so it will become a cushion. I could work some more on it -- there is a space where the needle is. But I probably won't. I knew I should have brought that sock yarn to knit.

Taipei Main station is enormous. Luckily we found someone to tell us which door to exit. Our hotel is only two blocks away so we will learn that station in the next 4 days.

Little museums

Today we finally found the Naha City Museum of Handicrafts. We must have walked past it half a dozen times this week. But on our way back from the Pottery Museum, which we only found by Jo's good nose for finding things, we spotted a map on the floor of the covered market where we found shelter from the heat. (Apples in this market are even more expensive than in the supermarkets, which proves that they are tourist traps.)
Both museums were friendly but had minimal English. We sat in the cool and watched videos about the various crafts and read the English guide book to the pots. 
Some of the fabrics were wonderful. They use very fine threads and very tight warps. 
I spotted a shop selling old kimono. These are kasuri!

In a nearby shop that sells dragons was a kitten who looked as though she had slain them all, single pawedly:

Castle of Ryushu kings

The rain has, as predicted, disappeared so we visited the Shuri castle today. It is on top of the mountain that overlooks Naha port. It was completely flattened in1945 during the Okinawa war = Battle of Okinawa. The local kings hadn't lived there since the Japanese had taken over (they came from Kagoshima.) So when they decided to rebuild in the early 1990's they had to do some research about what it looked like in its heyday. They found one bloke who said that it was red. So red it is.

 Outside and in. 

Although original tools were not used, traditional materials and joints were. It smells deliciously of the cedar that it is built of. And the views are stunning.

We also visited an old fashioned department store because it is said to have the best collection of woven fabrics. It certainly had more than I have seen elsewhere. But the prices! There was one piece of printed banana fibre, plain weave, about 5 ins by 10ins for $15. A place mat sets you back $50. Oh to get those prices for handwoven in Sydney.

The store caters for the older women, mostly. Very greyed palette, loose fit, easy care fabric. There was one nice, shibori dyed, indigo, man's shirt for $450 . . . on sale.

A little swim

Last night we went back to the restaurant that we enjoyed the night before last. It was just as good except there were smokers at the food bar. The chef has a pet rock fish in a tank on the bar that he feeds with sashimi. Man, can that fish move fast after food!

Today we joined a snorkelling trip away from the city

to the nearest reef. 

It is, of course, being killed by too many visitors and jet skis spewing gas over the coral. The youngsters go for the fast. We would have happily snorkelled off on our own without life vests but that was not allowed. We behaved like good Japanese and stayed close to the group, got out of the water when we were told to and had our photos taken. The water was beautiful and for the first time in many years you can see tog strap lines on my shoulders.

Okinawa Museum

The Okinawa Prefectural Museum and Art Gallery kept us busy all day. There were heaps of signs in English. Many repeated information which is good when you are learning new stuff. It covers not only natural history but the cultural history of the islands. Yet again, the locals are heroic and the invaders are villainous.
The Art part had an excellent exhibition by Ashimine, a local painter who loved green and painted it wonderfully. Jo said there were four painting that he would gladly own, I lost count.

We went by local bus (the terminus is across the street. This shrine occupies a corner.
On the way home, Jo looks pleased because we found bargain wine at the department store.

Okinawa beach fail

We caught a bus to the beach because it is Monday and the museums are closed. The bus route runs around the island and takes ages because the traffic is so thick. Most of the area is built up. The only open spaces between blocks of apartments or offices are US bases. When the Americans eventually leave there will be some open space left. I hope that they manage to conserve them for recreation.

We found a beach with some resort hotels and a white sand beach. But the reef is miles away and we were told that although we could use flippers and a face mask, snorkels were not allowed in the bay! When we asked at the dive shop, they said we were too old to take on their extravagant snorkelling tour! Perhaps there was miscommunication. But we have decided to stay put in Naha in our favourite hotel, the Tokyu Bizfort.
For lunch, I ordered a Rice Taco. It is perhaps a good example of Okinawan fusion cuisine. 
Heat up an iron pan, throw on some hot rice mixed with cheese, sprinkle over some sausage meat, some spicy tomato sauce and top with lettuce. The rice gets a yummy crunchy bottom. It was strangely satisfying but that might be because we were served hot rice with tomato sauce as kids. The next day it was served as desert with milk and sugar. The joys of nursery food!
The local mascot is either a lion or a dog asking to play. Here is one outside the Prefectural building.

Leaving Nagajima

Yesterday we did the museum and the art gallery. The museum is a modern building on the castle site. It gives a good overview of the history and culture of Kagoshima. They were a rampaging mob of samurai here for centuries. Farming was hard because in places the ash/powdered pumice is 200m deep. Water retention is a problem but the 600 varieties of bamboo thrive.

The Art Gallery has a small, comprehensive collection of 20th century European painters and a large collection of local's work. One in particular was impressive. He painted an egg on a wine glass on a table with another broken glass against a blue, blue sky. I wonder what was his meaning?

The day befor we went to the aquarium which was fabulous. Did you know that deep, deep tube worms have a haemoglobin that has reception spots for oxygen and for H2S. That is so they can feed their commensalism, sulphurphilic bacteria. This is a huge whale shark.

The volcano has been entertaining.

After dinner we came across this guy taking his cats for a walk. (Jo thought he was trying to sell them.) as soon as I took a photo others around is lost their reserve and wanted to pat the cats.

Sarukajima

This round island is a 15minute ferry ride from Kagojima. It is a volcano that spews plumes of ash most of the time.

Sakurajima

The ash falls, of course. I put on sunburn cream. The ash stuck to it. Jo scratched his head, his fingernails were black with it. Drifts of dark grey, fine pumice gather on the sidewalks. Imagine trying to keep a house clean!

We went to the island to try their public footbath. It was lovely.

This gentleman keep the tourists company while his wives yowled from the bushes.

Blogging from the iPad has its restrictions. It now tells me that I have run out of space. So I will have to limit uploading photos and even delete some photos of cats.

Day of reptiles

Yesterday we went to see the crater of Mt Aso. But it's dragon was restless and noxious gases blew towards the cable car. Wisely, management closed that route. If I had been up close when that wind blew I would be dead. The smell from afar was ghastly. ,y lungs immediately seized, head ached, throat itched. . . . and we were a couple of miles away. So we walked in the opposite direction to get a photo down the valley.

Mt Aso region

On our way back to the ticket place, a brown snake about a metre and a half long wriggled across the road. I was too surprised to grab my camera. On the way back to the train station we could have stopped for a ride on a Clydesdale. They were lined up with tables between each horse. They serve as mounting blocks.

Spotted this cat at the gift store, and left her there.

This is the crater we didn't see

We had lunch, delicious bentos, at the train station and an inch long frog joined us.

The Shinkansen to Nagoshima was very, very fast. As a way to see the country it is a dead loss because most of our time was spent in tunnels.

Kumamoto castle

I wanted to see this castle because I was so impressed by the castle that I saw in western Honshu in 1977. I have forgotten that castle's name, of course. I hadn't realises how many there are here . . . There was a photo display of the all in this one and they are all built along similar lines.

 This one is being restored. The 1960's restoration of the main building rebuilt it after it was destroyed in the Satsumata rebellion of 1877. It is made of concrete. But the smaller part has been recently rebuilt using traditional methods and materials. It is gorgeous. The timbers used are huge and the joints are spectacular. The painting is not bad either.

The castle is set in lovely parks with huge, old camphorlaurels beribboned with epiphytes
And the biggest gingo tree in the world stands guard of the restored palace.

We visited the house that the local lords built after they got tossed out of the castle. Not bad!

Nagasaki

We went to Nagasaki by the limited express which took two hours each way. It rained most of the way and for the rest of the day.

Nevertheless we did see some temples

Look at that cycad!

And some views

The Municipal Art Museum (only one exhibit was open but they have a Picasso, a Dali and a Miro) and the Nagasaki Culture and History Museum which we would have spent much more time in if they had more information in English. Dejima drew it all together. That is the island where the European traders were confined during their 3+ centuries of exclusive trade with Japan. . . except that the Chinese has their own trading enclave at the same time.

This is a model of Dejima in Dejima.

Hakata = Fukuoka

We "did" Hakata today. Or the immediate vicinity of the Hakata station. We went to the Hakata Asian Art museum. Their collect spans the same period as does the PHM so there must be potential for a joint exhibition there.
We went to the Hakata Traditional Craft Centre and the Hakata Machiya Folk Museum where a woman was weaving. It gladdened my heart to see a lovely old loom being used in a lovely old house. 

So then we went to a shrine or two, a garden and some shops (of course.)

We booked our Kyushu train pass for the next three days and I learned that I have been hacked. What to do? Go to Nagasaki!

Hakata

The hydrofoil got us here to Japan in 3 hours. Then it took an hour to get through immigration and by bus to the hotel which is only a mile or two from the ferry terminal. When I asked at reception what special was happening, she said. . . It is always busy.
So we went to the JR station to find an ATM. It is huge. It includes the bus terminal and the metro station as well as goodness knows how many food stores and department stores as well as shops of all kinds. It is like Bondi Junction on mega steroids. 
We wandered around getting lost. Finally found somewhere to get some cash, some lunch and a bottle of wine to recover with. There must be something special going on. Everybody was so excited and buying heaps of stuff.
Initial comparison of the Japanese with the Koreans in Busan:
The Koreans love bling and casual sports gear.
The Japanese dress in neutral colours but have a weakness for shoes, especially platform shoes. One lady wore high heeled, grey Wellies which had a rubber bow behind.